After a great meal at the Marina the night before, another early (ish) start as today we really wanted to get to Porto. The morning weather was bright and sunny, with no wind, OK force 1! Quite a change from two days ago. So we motored out of Portosin and through the Ria and back into the Atlantic. Still a good swell following the storms but a monotonous motor broken by a reappearance of Dolphins just before lunch. The afternoon, as usual, saw the wind starting to pick up and by 14.30 we had enough to get the sail up and start to Motor Sail.
Dave at the helm..
14.30 - wind in our sails!!
Highlights of the day.....dodging the trawlers...
Strange clouds building, but nothing came of it...
Motoring again.....ah well, time to catch up with PBO.....and sailing world....how to spot if your keel will fall off!
Dolphins!
What wind!
Dave trying to keep the deck clear while the sun shines!
More trawlers!
After a long days cruise, the headland before Povoa de Varzim.We had been optimistic thinking to reach Porto but nevertheless a good days run of 95 NM.
A good run for the day, and as we made the Marina a friendly face met us as we docked on the hammer head. Which was covered in a nice layer of guano!
29th August, Povoa de Varzim to Figuera da Foz. 85 NM.
A later start today (0940), gave us chance to stock up with cake and fresh bread from the town. Not the prettiest of places, a bit run down, but pleasant. Also found out that we nearly ran aground as we came in on the low tide last night - and that the entrance to the marina has silted up a little in some areas. More by luck than judgement (obviously!) we had made it in OK!!
Another beautiful day and again we spent the morning dodging trawlers and lobster pots!
A motoring start until the wind picked up again by 14.30, when we managed to sail - no engine! Nice Force 5 coming from the NW for once! So our speed picked up and we started to eat the miles. We made it to just off the River leading into Figuera by 21.00, averaging almost 8 knots for the day. Diesel tank 1 was reading empty at 15.00, but my calculation wast still at least 50 liters! I hate the digital tank levels! Lift the hatch and tapping the tank seems to give the best measure!
We made it into the Marina by 9pm. Berthing at the Fuel dock as no-one was in sight. God position as we needed to fuel in the morning. Took the time to check out the town, which was pleasant, and find a shop for provisioning in the morning.
30th August. Figuera de Foz to Peniche. 59 NM
A shorter run today, so a slowish start. Quick run to the shops for provisions, then topped up the fuel tank. 106 liters needed, meaning about 50 liters left as expected! Average fuel consumption a healthy 4.3 Liters hour with avg rpm at 1900.
Another slightly misty start, soon clearing to a beautiful day. Light winds again 1-3, so motorsailing was in order. We made Peniche, by 1800 after a relatively easy day. However, everyone stops early in the port so we would have to wait to 7am in the morning to clear out.
A beautiful calm day.
Light house at the point as we turned in to Peniche.
This time from the other side!
The harbour was busy so we rafted against a Cat manned by a pleasant German couple.
Peniche town, with castle. We found a pleasant store where the owner tried to get us to buy everything in the shop!
A pretty town, with tourists and trawlers heading out all day - producing a tremendous wake. 3 Knot speed limit? Really??!!!
31st August. Peniche to Oeiras (Lisbon) 48 NM
The Marina security team was due to start at 7, but as this is Portugal they arrived at 7.20. Getting use to Portugese life now! So we paid and left by 7.40, in the sun for an easy run down to Lisbon.
F3 again so mostly motor sailing and a simple non-eventful trip until we neared the Marina - when we had fun dodging our way through a race.
One other yacht out!
Lighthouse as we entered the Ria that contains Lisbon.
King of the World!
Dodging the fleet!!
Entrance to Oeiras. Easy entry despite fast tide flow outside the harbour. Inside, we were treated to a great berth on the quayside, by the bars and shops.
Miss Liz II at rest, showing off the ARC flag for our discount :-).
The rest of the day we spent provisioning and consuming Tapas at the Bars. Our new crew, Paul Fitzsimons joined us having arrived from Pamplona that morning. The marina was excellent with good facilities and very, very helpful marina staff who couldn't do enough for us.
1st September - 4th September Oeiras to the Madeira Archipelago, 521 NM
A late start as we had plenty of time. Coffee at the cafe, followed by having fun at the "swindlery" getting an electrical converter for shore power and also some fuel treatment. We topped up the fuel (4.5 liters hour average), then set off.
Initially we motored until we could launch the Jib, which was the cue for thick fog to appear and the radar watch went on. It lasted an hour until the wind picked up to a 5 from the West...beating again!!! By 19.00 we were passing through the traffic lanes, which were relatively quiet.
19.30 Dolphins again to brighten up our day. It's amazing how much they cheer you up!
OK, Madeira, hmm, few days away but making sure I understand the entry procedures!
Our new crew member Paul on watch!
As night closed in the skies were clear, and initially no moon so the sky was stunning as the Milky Way shone through. Plenty of shooting stars to watch, leaving fascinating smoke rails behind them.
As Miss Liz II quietly cut through the waves, the phosphorescence on the bow wave and wake as stunning, and even the trip to the heads was brightened up as pumping out caused the lines and bowl to glow an incredible yellow.
93 NM run for the day.
September 2nd, good start with some light fog in the morning. One ship altered course in the night to avoid us but otherwise a very quiet evening. The wind had dropped in the night, with engine needed at 0300, but by 9.45 we were back on sail with Harry (our hydrovane now has a name) at the helm. More dolphins in the day to brighten up a quiet day. No ships, all very quiet.
Only downside was the main halyard jammer which still does not hold. an 8mm line just slipped through completely. Need to replace before the ARC.
Sunshine and a quiet day.
3rd September. Moonset at 00.45. Again, an incredible star lit night with phoshorescence around the ship.
With the wind in our face the engine came back on at 0200 and the Jib brought in as it started to flog. More dolphins in the day and at 1200, we switched to Diesel Tank 2, even though we had plenty left in 1. Genset on in the afternoon and we made over 100 liters of water. Great for everyone to get a shower. Luxury!!! As evening came the wind dropped further and so we motored through the night until 0500 when we had enough of a breeze to sail again. Shooting stars and meteorites again showing strongly throughout the night, and near morning, Venus, Jupiter and Uranus (the planet!) all visible in the dawn sky.
4th September
Anticipation rising as we saw land early in the day! Decision made that we would berth in Porto Santo rather than taking another 4 -5 hours to get to Madeira. So by Noon we were at berth in the pleasant harbour. Berthed next to a monstrous Cat of 70 ft.
The good news was that for the 12 hour run, we achieved 109 NM, speeds getting up to 9 Knots plus under sail. Bad news......spotted engine oil (small amount) under the engine, and drive belt squealed on start up....
Porto Santo Ho!!!
Three very good days sailing....521 NM. Good going with average speed of 8 Knots.
And here comes the mist again, rounding the Island off the SW of Porto Santo.
Entering Porto Santo Harbour
View of the volcanic landscape around the Marina.
Fishing fleet in the main harbour.
The massive Cat! 4 people on board. We decided it was actually an apartment in disguise!
Memorabilia on the harbour wall, other visiting yachts. Wish we had some paint! Maybe next time!
Had to have a picture taken with this one...
Beach at the main town. Interesting fact, Madeira has no beaches so folks visit Porto Santo at the weekend for their beach "fix".
Decided to have dinner on shore (to save Dave more effort (although he is a great cook!!). Coffee at the Marina cafe first though....
Paul, coffee or wine....let me think? Wine 1 euro a glass, coffee 80 cents.....hard choice...
5th - 7th September. Porto Santo to Gran Canaria. 331 NM.
Up at a reasonable time of 8, as we were meant to meeting the fuel guy on the harbour side at 9.15. Oh, sorry, forgot, we are still in Portugal.....so he turned up at 10.30.... A 192 Liter fill meant we were using fuel at the rate of 3.4 Liters / hour. Much better. Note to self. RPM stays at 1500 - 1800 rpm in future!
So off by 11am on yet another gorgeous day. Miraculously the wind had shifted....on to our bow again. What is it with this weather!
Never the less we managed to sail with the wind building to a 5/6. Too make life more comfortable we even made the effort to put a reef in. Great day sailing, and we made over 102 NM in a 12 hour stretch with speeds upto 9 knots not uncommon.
Leaving Porto Santo Behind. Nice Island, nice people. Go there!
Paul pondering on whether to top up the tank....after all, we had used the genset for an hour.. 60 liters water. More showers for all!
Paul, it cant be my shift again already!
DJ, on the Night shift....
6th September
beautiful night, yet again. It really is a fantastic experience when you have the shift too yourself. Very quiet, not a ship spotted all night. Ghostly storm petrels shooting by liven up the night.
Wind shifted in the the night though...on the nose again! Engine on at 0640 and the wind had dropped to 6 knots. Damn. By 1000 the Islas de Salvagem were spotted, uninhabited but a Portugese National park. Whales spotted about 2 NM away, Paul disappointed we didn't go and see....
Paul "how do I turn this thing around without nobody noticing......"
More water generated in the afternoon. Engine checks - no more oil spotted....Good!!
7th September
0000. Land Ho! Gran Canaria lights spotted and the dipping Lighthouse at La Isletta clear to see. Another good night, more traffic now as we approached Gran Canaria, and by 0630 we were off Las Palmas.
Now the fun as we threaded our way through many anchored vessels, drilling ships and rigs into the harbour and then into the massive marina where we tied up at 0730 on the Visitors pontoon. Despite a Sunday, we were met straight away. Having cleared into Gran Canaria we then made to the fuel pontoon, waiting for a Hanse 545 to clear the dock. Only a small amount of fuel needed, anmd once again 3.5 Liter average per hour. Getting better at the fuel management.
Entering Las Palmas Harbour in the dark...
Dawn breaking as we entered the Marina.
By noon we were on our berth S6. Engine checks revealed small amount of oil, and turning the A/C on found the forepeak unit was not cooling. With 300 hours on the engine booked a service for October with the Island Volvo Penta team and since heard from Aztec Marine that an engineer will visit to check over the A/C unit too. Hanse also confirmed replacement of a few odd parts - including the troublesome Jammer, so we should be god to go.
Dinner that night, as a treat in downtown Las Palmas by the sea front. Excellent food! With flights booked we had a reasonable night.
So after 2 weeks and two days of sailing from Plymouth we had covered almost 1700 Miles, winds up to Storm force and on our nose most of the way. Miss Liz II sailed beautifully and is now ready for the ARC in November.
Thanks to the team of Rob, Chris and Jon for crewing across Biscay, and Paul Fitzsimons from Lisbon to Gran Canaria. Not least to Dave Mackay for the whole trip and cooking some great meals on the way. Watch this space as we prepare for the ARC in October with a visit to check Miss Liz II over before the ARC start in November.
